the last week, I’ve build the weir for the water-wheel and added it to the canal. Since the time is running by very quick, I directly planted the trees to get the progress continue.
The next evening, I started with the bushes and grasses. It took some time to get the whole layout covered, but once I’m in the mood, it’s a relaxing and enjoyable work.
As on my other modules, I uses several foliage and grasses made by Woodland and Busch. So the new module matches perfectly to the rest of the layout.
another week has passed. I added the ballast to the tracks as well as basic green ground cover I use.
The ballast is spread out dry along the rails. I use a mixture of Noch model train ballast with sand and fine turfs. Once the ballast is done, I moisture everything with rubbing alcohol , which will crawl into the ballast, so the later added water/whiteglue-mixture will creep easier into the ballast.
At the turnout’s I use less ballast below the moving parts, to avoid mechanical issues. While the glue is setting, I test the movement of the turnout regularly.
While the glue on the ballast is still wet, I paint the landscape surrounding with water/whiteglue-mixture and add an earth-blend mixture of Woodland fine-turf as basic green groundcover. The fresh applied glue will also be sucked into the ballast and the applied turf will stick to the ballast sides as well. This creates a smooth and soft transition instead of a hard line.
Once everything is dry, I can start to install the sawmill with surrounding details.
See you next week 😉
another week has passed. Once the electrical stuff was done, I gave the rails an airbrush weathering and spend a light grey dry-brush to the sleepers.
To raise the hills, I glued some layers of foam (used for house insulation) to the layout and cut them to shape. I use a wire-brush in the power-drill, which makes fast progress, but a dirty mess.
Once the foam is in shape, I add plaster, which just started to set. I spread it with my fingers and “massage” the plaster into the foam and landscape. Once dry, the whole module get’s a coat with acrylic paint in earth-blend. Now the module is ready for ballast and scenery.
More to some next week.
I just got the “go” for the Exhibition in Sinsheim/Germany on March 9-11th. So it’s time to get some more progress done on the new module.
I made a cut out to the module box just beside the sawmill to add the mill creek. I added strips of plywood to gain some depth and finally a sheet of plywood below to form a canal.
The whole canal is revetted with sand stone. I used some structure sheets from Vollmer and colored them to match the sand stone we have in our region. The riverbed got simply painted and some stones and greens added. I than spend 4 “fills” of Woodland water to create the water surface.
The water-wheel will be placed in the right channel, so I added a wall to hold the bearing. At the far edge of the module, I’ll add two water locks to regulate the overflow (left) and the water-wheel. With the mill creek done, I was able to fit in the last two pieces of track. I used some old code 100 rails as bridge trusses. Should work for such a slim gauge logging line 😉
No I’ve to wait for some electronic bits I had to order, before I can finish the wiring. The turnout mechanisms are already in place and connected.
See you next week, Gerd
Hello logging railroaders!!!
After spending so much time on my Resita loco, I’ll switch to a smaller scale project. I just started work on a new module for my Hon30 forestry railroad. I look forward to exhibit the layout again in March 2018, so it would be great to show something new. Once the module is done, I’ll return to the garden railroad project. Promised 😉
The new module will be 80x20cm, just the same size as my station-module and connects right to the left of it. The module will feature a sawmill-scene. Central piece of the module is the little Faller mill. I really like the model, but I’ve to kitbash it, to make it fit on the small modules.
So the water wheel will move from the back to the side of the mill. This makes the whole mill assembly 3cm narrower, so it will fit on the module with a run-by-track in front of the mill. I first made a paper moke-up to see if the clearance to the rail is okay, before I started with the building.
On the side of the main building, I closed the lower door and window, since the water wheel will be moved to this area. I pre-assembled the parts with tape to check the clearance to the rails again. Once I was sure, I started painting the plastic parts and assembling the sawmill structures.
It took me some time to get all the parts painted, weathered and build up. As usual, I build the houses without the base. I also decided to mirror the far right shed-section to make it fit better into the scenery.
With the sawmill building done, I can now start with the woodwork on the Casani-boxes.
Will be continued soon 😉
the last work is done on the Resita and the loco is ready to run.
Beside the paint on the cab, I added some last details as well, like the oil pump on the right hand cylinder or the sucker-pipe to take water. I used a white crayon to add the washed trim on the water tanks and bunker.
After the airbrush-weathering, I added the last details to give here the prototypical look of a well used Romanian logging loco. The number plates are custom etched, as the kit is delivered with 764-484 plates.
And here she is, finished and ready for first service – CFF 764-467 of the Cimpul Cetatii line in the 1992 version.
The loco was finished on Dec. 23rd. so I was able to run here during the annual X-mas-steam-up the next day.
Since the loco was finished, I took a break (hard to believe) and I’ll start with finishing the cars next week. So stay tuned, the Cimpul Cetatii story will be continued
this might be the forelast report until the Resita is finished. After the successful test runs under steam, I installed the RC-components. I use 4 channels for reverse gear, steam valve, whistle and brake.
The brake was added subsequently, after I noticed that I need one to slow down the train on downward grades. As on the prototype, the brake acts on the two center wheelsets. It’s connected to a RC-servo below the cab floor.
As the body shell arrived, the full size and dimension of the loco become clear. As on the frame, I spend some extra work to the cab to add more details and get some closer to the prototype. This includes rivet-detail on cab and coal bunker as well as the correct shaped back of the bunker.
This was one of the bigger challenges. The left photo shows the difference between the single bend version on the model, vs. the more prototypical S-curve, shown on the left. This is another reason, why I extended the frame, as it now fit’s to the correct cab.
The new bunker-back was bend from steel-sheet. As on the cab, I added rivet’s where they were found on the prototype (on cab and bunker, while the water tanks are welded on all Resita). I use a std. circular board as drilling template, solder the brass rivets from the back and finally filed them flush.
The last remaining work is paint, plates, weathering and lots of details…
I often read about the live steam hobby, that this is something for “old men”…
Well, our little daughter (3) is too young to know about that, so she just enjoys, that she has fun with. Running dads live steam trains for example…
I’m glad to have more than one live steam loco, so we won’t get in trouble.
I’m totally in love with logging railroads, mostly for the worn out and cluttered look of the locos as well as the whole railroads. Clean and shiny museum railroad locos are missing the special flair and charm of the railroads when they are still in service back in the 80′ and 90′.
So I grabbed the airbrush and converted my fresh painted Resita…
… into a well used 1992 Resita, close to the chosen prototype 764-467.
Once the paint was dry, the Resita made its first run under steam and own power! An important milestone is reached!
Now that everything works fine, it’s time to lift a small secret of my loco, which was not named before. I installed a homemade “SloMo-device”.
Technically, a SloMo is a simple friction-/flywheelmotor as it is used in toy cars. The flywheel and gear reduction adds inertia and momentum to the small-scale steam loco. This leads into fantastic slow running performance.
My SloMo rides on the 3rd wheelset of the loco and is hidden by the dummy firebox.
Once I got the RC-components installed, it’s time for some more detailed test runs.
Happy regards, Gerd
Even on Christmas, here’s a small update for you.
I disassembled the chassis and sand-blasted all parts, which need to get painted. I use spray-paints from Metaflux, wich I dry in the oven at 80°C for about 30 minutes. I’ve a small oven in my workshop, for larger parts as the frame or boiler, I’ve to use our regular kitchen oven. I’m happy that my wife has no issues with that.
Once the loco was assembled again, I installed the steam valves and pipes.
Since the gas-part is still missing, I did some test runs with air. Before I’ll steam-up the loco for the first time, I’ll spend some special attention to the loco, as long as the paint is fresh and clean.