I couldn’t stop working on the tender so I continued with the tender body. I sandblasted the tender shell to remove all the paint. This makes any soldering action easier and allows some changes to the tender design. The paint was very sticky and it took me some while to get it off. Parallel to the sandblasting, I painted the tender frame, and let the paint rest to dry.
On the tender, I relocated the rear hand rails from the side, into the bend, just as on the front end. First I soldered new rails in place, afterwards, I snipped the old ones off and filed them flush with the tender shell. Before that, I un-soldered the tender brackets, which will get relocated as well, while my tender frame is narrower then the original one.
Another task was to fill in the holes in the tender shell. I mad small plugs on the lathe and soldered them into the holes. Then I sanded them flush with the tender shell on both sides. Once these are sandblasted and painted again, they wont be visible.
The fixed tender body does look much better now. As the inner parts of the original tender were no longer useful, I removed them and decided to install a wooden interior to the tender. But before that, I made two new brass sheets to cover the front deck of the tender tank. Here you can see the tender brackets back in place at a right angle to the tender ends.
As said above, the new tender interior is made from plywood. I epoxied two blocks of 1/2″ plywood at the far ends into the brass shell. Later I added the top from 2mm plywood.
The whole wooden part will be hidden by the coal bunker above, so I’m happy with this solution. At the rear end of the tender, I placed the air tank, which was originally located under the cab. I use several Colorado & Southern Moguls for inspiration on this project. There are still lots of details missing and paint off course.
as announced last week, I did some work on the tender. My first plan was to rebuild the original tender frame but I got to the conclusion, that it might be much easier to build a new frame from wood instead.
The new frame is longer and narrower than the original one. I’ll go to model the new tender to the style and type of the tender on my Bachmann C-19.
From the original frame, I salvaged all detail parts and attached them on the new frame. The bolsters got cut to get longer wheelbase. The rear foot board was made from brass.
And here’s the new loco so far. I really like the longer tender together with the shorter wheelbase on the loco. It changes the overall look so well.
In the meantime, I got the RC components so I can continue work on the loco as well.
The new year has just started and here’s the first progress report.
I modified and reinstalled the original brake rigging to match the new wheelbase of the chassis. Since there’s plenty of room below the cab where the rear driver was original located, I made two typical brake cylinders from brass and mounted them to the rear end.
At the front end, I installed a Kadee coupler to the cow catcher. I was very unhappy with the first try, but the second one is just perfect. Beside the Kadee, the loco got an air hose (Ozark).
Since I’ve to wait for some other parts to get further progress done on the loco, I’ll have a look to the tender next. There are some holes to cover and maybe I’ll narrow the frame a little bit to make it look more Colorado-ish.
A happy new year !!
Hello my friends,
I wish all of you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
This year christmas eve, we had a small family meet and some officially maiden runs on the new garden railroad. I look forward to get the rest of the line build in 2019 as well as some of the rolling stock finished, which is on my wish list as well.
Kind regards, Gerd
I can report success on the wheelbase-change of my Mogul.
Right after my last post, I grabbed the angle-grinder and started to cut out the new slot for the rear set of drivers. Once the rough cutting was done, I filled the slot to final size and smoothed out the edges to get a perfect fit for the axle bearings just as on the original slot.
At the inside of the frame, I had to remove a bit of the firebox sheet to clear the lip of the axle bearings. The bearings are now guided by the upper section only on the rear end, but once they are installed with springs and bearing lock, they are firmly guided and will suspend also. Key is to work clean and precise.
At the old bearing slot, I removed the noses which hold the lower bearing locks and installed the locks flush with the underside of the frame. At the new location, I head to make new locks from brass and screwed them in place. I used the nearby screws from the manufacturer plate and drilled new holes on the other side. And here’s the frame with shortened wheelbase.
Last step was to shorten the connection rods. I cut them with 3mm extra on both ends and milled 6mm of the ends down to half thickness. So I got a lap-joint which got silver-soldered.
The last photo shows the loco with boiler and cab added. What a transformation and for my point – a very good one.
Now I’ll take a brake in my workshop for the upcomming holidays. I whish you all a Merry Christmas.
starting this week, I’ll report the progress of my Mogul-rebuild. Once the loco arrived at my home, I tested the loco with compressed air first, followed by a steam-up to check if everything was working fine. As the loco was performing well on the workbench, I brought her out to the garden railroad for some test runs.
Later I finished the list of rebuild projects and started to dismantle the tender and loco. The tender once may housed RC-controlls and other equipment as most of the inner structure has been destroyed and a crude top-cover was glued on to hide the mess. So the tender will need some rebuild and fixing. It will hold battery and RC controller again. I’ll also add some details to my own favor.
The loco was fine so far and only showed marks from removed RC components in the back of the cab. Maybe I can restore it, or I’ll add a new cab rear wall.. As I figured out at the test runs in the garden, the very long Baldwin-style wheelbase of this 2-6-0 tends to trouble on the curves, even on LGB-R3 radius. I found photos on the web of similar Accucraft Moguls, which got rebuild to have a shorter wheelbase. I’ll try to do this on my loco as well and bring her more to the look of the Colorado&Southern Moguls, which were favorite locos of mine.
So I started to disassemble the loco as well, down to the frame. I found a lot of old oil, which got cleaned out of bearings and off the frame. Once the wheelsets have been removed, I started to figure our, how to move the rear drivers closer to the center driver.
I think this will become some kind of a challenge. The frame seems to be made from steel, so cutting or milling will be not easy. And I fear there’s only one try for this project. the last photo for today shows the position marked on the frame, where a new slot needs to be cut for the axle bearing.
today I don’t have logging-related news, but good news anyway. I got a livesteam Accucraft Mogul as a bargain from eBay. The loco and especially the tender needs some attention/rebuilt, but at least, the steam part is working great. As last year on my Resita project, I’ve a long list with things to be done on this loco and I’ll show the progress within the next weeks. Here are some photos of the new loco.
We also got first snow at Ronja Springs this weekend.
Have a nice 3rd Advent, Gerd
this year, I was very busy in many model railroad projects and I made good progress not only on my new garden railroad. At least, I attended more than 8 model train shows and exhibited my model train layouts.
With the beginning Advent time, I like to relax a little bit to gain more power and ideas for 2019. It’s time for family and Xmas preparations. But don’t be afraid, I’ll continue this blog and my projects starting next year.
Until then, I’ll revisit the main pages on my blog, spend some updates here and there and there are still some open questions regarding some details on my H0n30-layout, which like to get answered.
So stay tuned, enjoy the last month of 2018 with all its joy and contemplation and we’ll see us again soon ;-)
I got asked a few times, how I custom letter my garden railroad trains. So here’s a short description of the technique I use. The last days, I finished my rolling stock for the “Southern Palatinate Narrow Gauge Railway”. I use CorelDraw and a stencil-type font to create the text I need. In my case, I use font “Stardos Stecil”. From this CorelDraw-file, I export a DXF while I convert all text into curves.
My dad bought a laser cutter some while ago for thin materials. He converts the DXF-file for the laser and cuts the stencils from thin cardboard.
These stencils are cut to size, taped to the model the letters are sprayed on with the airbrush. Use many soft layers to avoid bubbles of paint, which might sneak under the stencil. Once done, remove the stencils immediately and let the paint dry. If you handle the stencils carefully, they can be reused several times.
I use CorelDraw as well to create the homemade stickers. These are printed on a usual laser printer to self-adhesive white sticker foil. Once cut to out, I blacken the edges with a marker pen and glue them to the models. I used such stickers also to letter the locomotives.
BTW, I use the same stencil-technique on my 2″-scale trains, but I use cnc-milled stencil from 1mm styrene instead.