due to workload, I don’t have a new report this week.
But I like to solve last weeks question. 331 rivets are added to the cab. Since the where only few attende, I shared the actual photos with all of them :)
Next week, I’ll show the final work on the interior and we’ll start disassembling for painting.
It’s time for another update.
I glued the parts of the cab together after adding the rain gutter to the sides. The side walls were cut with extra width and I used spacers then gluing the front and back. Once the glue was dry, I filed the sides flush with the ends. Nevertheless, I need some filler to get all gaps closed and smooth.
Once the filler was sanded down, the long journey in detailing started. Adding the windows and shutters were not a big deal, but the rivet detail took some while. What do you think, how many rivets are used on the cab only? Leave a comment and the closest guess by end of this week will get an exclusive preview of the nearly finished model ;-)
I also started with the interior by adding some flooring. The remaining cab interior will become the last sub assembly before painting.
I postponed this final step for a long while, but now it’s time to tackle the cab. As on my Krauss loco, I made all walls from 1,5mm ABS plastics. To bend the backside wall, I heated the plastic and used a jig.
The windows were cut out with a scroll saw and filed to shape. I used some paper templates for these parts. Next challenge was to create the sides, which are bend into the roof portion. My first idea was, to make this segment from one single piece, but this idea was dropped very soon.
It was much easier to make two halves. First, I bend the parts with heat and another jig. I left some extra material on all sides and cut them to final dimension after the bend. The cutouts were made in the last step.
On these photos, the parts are just assembled loose on the loco for a first dry-fit. I’ve to spend some more file and sandpaper to make them all fit. Once done, I can glue them together for further detailing.
I was able to postpone the cab construction by adding more details to the water tanks. So I added water hatches for the tanks from PVC and ABS plastics.
Another typical detail on such Budapest locos is the location of the water-sucker inside or in front of the smoke boy support. The model was scratch-built from brass.
Also typical is the diagonal pipe running to the top of the water tank. With such details, the water tanks are done as well. Now is no more hiding to get the cab attached.
Finally, I found some issues with my builders plate. Seems there are differences in scale somehow….
Let’s continue with the water tanks of the loco. The basic construction is made from 2 and 3mm styrene. I glued a 0.5mm sheet to the underside, which represents the walkway along the loco tanks. BTW, I decided to model a welded replacement tanks, as many prototype engines got new tanks before the era I like to represent.
The outer shell of the tanks is made form 1.5mm styrene, which got bend to shape first, glues to the base and cut to dimension in the last step. The water tanks are hollow at the front end. Close to the cab, I added lead weights.
Another detail is the handrail running along the top edge as well as the generator. The tanks are rigged permanently wo the boiler by cross braces. The whole super-structure has to be removable in the end.
The last photo gives an impression of the finished loco once the cab is done as well. I still look for clever solutions how to make rounded side-roof-section.
Welcome back to this weeks blog,
as announced last week, I’ll focus on the boiler back-head. Since this is a large scale model, the cab interior will be well visible and needs some decoration as well.
The parts are scratch-built from styrene, brass and wires. For hand wheels, I use brass-castings. The parts for the steam manifold are made on from brass on the lathe.
The steam regulator lever with link-rod was replaced as I didn’t like the first attempt.
For now, the boiler is complete. Let’s see how much of the details will be still visible once the cab is in place. Additional interior parts like Johnson bar, hand brake and more pipework will be added together with the cab floor.
Let’s finish the boiler.
I was looking for cast brass parts to add the water feed valves, but I couldn’t get some. So I finally decided to make them scratch-built from brass. The parts are made on the lathe and I added some cast hand wheels. Looks better than the cast brass parts .
On top of the smoke box, the smokestack was still missing. This part was made from PCV round stock, shaped on the lathe as well and I added some small plastic pieces for final design.
Now the boiler is done except for the back head detail. I added the head light and some more pipes along the boiler. At the chassis, I placed the supports for the water tanks.
And to give a size comparison to my H0n30 fans, the last photo shows small Minitrains Krauss on the cab floor.
Meanwhile, I’m working on the boiler back head detail. I’ll show you the results next week.
Let’s continue with the pipework on the new loco. Below the future cab floor, I mounted two injectors and extended them with the water pipes. While body of the loco has to be removable, I made separate attachments for the water tank outlet valves.
For the cylinders, I made gland pieces to take the in and out steam pipes. I used black Delrin to make them. Bending the pipes was a mess and in case of the inlet pipes, I spend 4 attempts until I was satisfied with the result.
Also in place is the lubricator on the engineer side. As on the prototype, it’s powered by a link coming from the cross head.
Now it’s time to get the RC and electronic parts installed. Battery-Checker, voltage regulator and fuse are placed in the firebox area. The 4S Lipo battery is housed inside the boiler while the Deltang Rx66 is hidden by the white cover on top of the power unit.
So it’s time for some test runs in the garden to get familiar with the future operation side. Afterwards with loco got placed next to my other CFF steam locos on the shelf, waiting for further progress.
Let’s continue the boiler.
I added safety valves to the steam dome, made from brass, screws and nuts.
The steam outlet at the front of the dome is cast brass and bought from Bertram Heyn. I removed the lever and mounted it to the side of the dome as on the prototype I like to model. On the fireman’s side, I added another valve which will supply the water ejector with steam.
The sand dome also got finished. I added sand pipes provided by DMR Reppingen. Both domes are hold in place by screws from the inside of the boiler.
The photos above also show the location of the battery pack inside the boiler. I also started to build the boiler back-head. Therefore, I’m now able to determine the final height of the boiler and create the support for the smokebox next. This part is made from plastic sheet and brass nails as used on the frame.
Step by step, it’s starting to look like a steam locomotive. Actually, I’m working on the steam pipes to the cylinders. More on that next week.
after the short break, I’m back on the Budapest project. I made the domes for the boiler from steel. This may sound wired first, but since I need the space inside for the battery, I’ve to add weight on other places. At least, I had pieces of steel in my scrap box.
The tapered shape of the steam dome is made on the lathe. I made the dome upside down, so I can mill the saddle on the bottom of the dome while holding the piece itself on the remaining stock material.
I milled the bottom in small steps by using a coordinate table. This way, the boring head operation is much easier to handle. I added 0.6mm to the final radius for adding a sheet of brass in between. More on this later.
I used the same setting to drill holes for parts on the steam dome. Once finished, the domes are matching the boiler very well.
Last step in the process is adding pieces of 0.6mm brass sheet. The pieces got annealed and bend to match the boiler shell. After soldering pieces to the domes, I filed them to final shape.