a few days ago, I made use of the good weather and spend an afternoon at the club layout to dun my Moody Lumber Co. trains.
My friend Jonas also joined and decided to steam up my Forney. So, this went up to be the first time in more than 4 years, that both my steam locos were in service the same time. I also used the opportunity to make actual photos of each rolling stock to be added to the MLC-overview in the menu bar on top of this page.
Its time to get the interior finished.
The wooden strips shown in last week preview were assembled to a workbench, which got weathered and detailed with tools and clutter.
Back in time, Pola/LGB/MO-Miniatur offered a workshop & toolcar in G-scale, which included a whole bunch of diecast detail parts, which I use on my models. Unfortunately, they are rare to find these days and not cheap.
I also made a shelf for more clutter from some boards and strips. The oven and barrels are parts from MO-Miniatur as well, while the fire protection sheet was made from real sheet metal.
Here are two more photos, showing the completed interior as well as a final photo of the caboose with the roofs on top.
BTW, all four new made cars got some wood stain applied as base for the upcoming airbrush weathering.
Good morning loggers,
let’s start with the interior. The high seats for the conductor/brakeman were made from wood. The cabinets underneath got some details parts added made by Ozark and handrails from wire.
The brakeman also got a facelift (literally) as this (probably a Bachmann figure) was somewhat creepy. I cut away the gloves, re-positioned the right arm and gave him a new coat of paint.
Here’s a test fit inside the caboose, first progress on the roof and finally an outlook for next week project.
See you :-)
… and welcome back at my caboose project. I finished the planking on the basic body-frame.
I used coffee stirrer for the planking, which are 5-6mm wide and 1mm thick. With the different texture and color, they already provide a very authentic surface. Some of the bracing-timbers were cut to size at the bandsaw.
Next to the windows. I glued the frames on top of clear acrylic and the finished windows are than glued from the inside against the window trim. At least I made a simple roof from thin plywood, which will stay removable to get access o the interior. This will be the next project.
spontaneously, I took a break from model trains last week and simply enjoyed the summer and family. Therefore there’s no update on the caboose this week. But it will continue next week. I already did some progress on the planking and it looks great. So stay tuned for next weeks update.
Relaxed regards, Gerd
since I was still unsure which style of caboose to build, I’m glad to present first progress on the caboose this week. During research for the sand & gravel car in the West Side Lumber Co. book, I spotted old WSLC caboose #2 with its diagonal bracings on the outside. This car looks something special and will be used as inspiration for my shorter version.
Let’s start with the basic timber construction. The timbers were cut on the bandsaw. First I thought that 4x4mm might be to thin, so I cut them to 5×5. Later I realized, that 4×4 would have been better. Anyway, next time I may remember and choose the correct size.
If I’m in need for multiple pieces with the same length, I use to bundle them together with sticky tape and cut them in one go.
The timber frames were glued together on a sheet of backing paper, since the white glue will not stick to it and the finished parts can be removed easily. The assembled segments are then glued to the car frame.
Last part for today is the cupola on top. Next week, I’ll start to cover the frame with boards and install first details as well.
For the third car, I choose a prototype from the famous WSLC, sand & gravel car #276. All strips and timbers were cut on the bandsaw and glued together to build up the super structure for this one.
Last of the new cars is the caboose. I’m still looking for some ideas how to build the body on the new caboose. Let us see next week, if I could find some inspiration.
Let’s continue with a water car, to supply logging camps and steam donkeys with fresh water, in case there’s no natural source nearby.
The tank comes from an old Faller E-train tank car. The size was just perfect, but the tank lacks a lot of details. Finally, no issue for a passionate model maker like me. First, I removed some pipe attachments and closed holes and gaps with filling putty.
Next, I added pieces from self-adhesive foil to represent different layers of metal sheets. Such a tank car has to be riveted, which is shown by small brass nails. This work took some while but will look great once the tank is painted black. I also added a piece of round steel to lift up the filling hatch.
To keep the tank in place of the flat car, I added a timber frame with NBWs. Final detail are scratchbuilt valves, water hose and a ladder. Once the tank got painted and finally mounted to the flat car, I’ll add some tie-down-straps as well.
Let’s see what will happen to the third flat car.
During the past two weeks, I made the chassis for my new freight cars. Now I’ll start with the superstructures for each of them car by car.
The first car I made is a blockcar to haul firewood and wood blocks to the camps or steam donkeys. They were not only used for firewood, but also as stop blocks when loading logs. My model is inspired by a car used by the Diamond & Caldor Railway.
As on the frame sills, I cut all timbers from scrap wood. NBWs & hardware are Ozark parts with some pieces of brass as well.
So, first car done, next will be a water tankcar.
Next step is to bring the car frames onto wheels.
I got a couple of die-cast trucks with real springs, originally made by Regner many years ago. Those are the same as on the other cars. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the same wheelsets, so I mixed in another brand. All parts got a bath in browning fluid before assembling.
One pair of trucks got additional brake gear added from Ozark-parts. They will be used under a new caboose later.
Before I started to glue on the hardware parts to complete the frames, I decided to sand of the wrong wood-stain, which worked astonishing well.
Now I can start with the super structure for each car.