round about 5 years ago, I placed my order for the Resita kit. Right afterwards, I started thinking on how to build matching cars and more important, which prototype model I could choose for my own Resita loco.
The Resita kit arrived in late 2017 and I immediately started the built. But I still had no garden railroad at that time. So, I decided to choose a small operation instead of the bigger networks as Viseu de Sus, Moldovita or Comandau. Finally, I remembered some film scenes of the line at Cimpul Cetatii, so my Resita became CFF 764-467. This brought some additional features, since the loco didn’t hat headlights in later years, so there was no need to model them and I really liked the look of my loco.
Meanwhile, the garden railroad line was built and after selling my Colorado-style trains, I was looking for another CFF loco. As I got a LGB HF110c (Frank S.) by accident, I rebuild her into my Krauss-loco, loosely based on the Oituz loco. I was also thinking about some additions to the Krauss loco and finally build two cars, based on Moldovita prototypes, as they used a Krauss loco as well.
Actually, I built the Budapest loco. This project was already started many month ago by collecting parts and is based on the idea to make a battery powered 0-8-0 from LGB parts. So how about additional cars? My first idea was to build several new cars to accomplish several different CFF lines with plausible and authentic rolling stock. But why so much different topics? Never mind that some of my model are already freelance?
In the end, I spend some more research on my books, made notes for potential and plausible matches to my rooster and how to get all different models united under one railroad operation. But is this really the best way? And would it satisfy me at the end?
To be continued…
with the chassis of the Budapest loco done so far, it’s time to start the boiler. This will make it easier to design the boiler rest on top of the chassis and some other details.
I decided to use a combination of PVC pipe for the boiler with domes and made from steel. This will provide some weight to the loco, but keeps space inside the boiler for batteries and electronics.
The PVC pipe started with 60mm OD and 30mm ID. It was turned to shape on the lathe. Once the outer contures were finished, the rear portion was milled out to take the LiPo battery. I used the same setup to drill the mounting holes for the domes, stack and other parts. This way they are perfect alligned and uprigt on top of the boiler.
The smokebox door was made from scrap pieces. The door itself is turned out of steel wth some styrene pieces and Ozark detail parts. Next week, I might have some progress on the steam dome.
Let’s continue construction on the Budapest project ;-)
It’s time to get the main frame assembled. The sheets for the front and back were made from ABS plastic again by using the same tools and techniques as on the side frames. I added diagonal U-profiles inside the frame to support the couplers, as it’s found on the prototype. BTW, the couplers are the only 3D-printed part on this project.
The rail guards are bent from brass and screwed in place. Now it’s time to add the motor unit and all the rods and valve gear. It took quite a while to get everything running smooth. The outside frame limits the side travel of the wheelsets and at the end, I added 0.5 shim washers to reduce the travel. Due to the limitations, the minimum radius of the chassis is 120cm (4)’ which is still less than the prototypical 150cm it would need.
Beside the changes on the valve gear excentre I showed last week, I made some changes to the link hangers as well, changing the overall look more into Stephenson valve gear. The support arc for the cross head guides are assembled with brass angles.
I also shortened the side rod from the cross head to make everything fit. Now the main chassis is done so far. Many details are still missing, but I look forward for some trial runs. But I’m getting there step by step…
For my new loco, I bought parts from a LGB IK loco to model the valve gear. Unfortunately, the excentre motion is rigged and moving separate. So, it was necessary for me to rebuild these parts into something more prototypical.
First, I made some excentre discs from black POM (Delrin) on the lathe. I drilled two holes into the stock material for 1.6mm screws. Next, I removed the pin from the crank and added two holes for M1.6 screws. The discs are mounted opposite to each other.
More difficult were the changes to the excentre rods. They are made from a very flexible rubber-plastic. So drilling is not working well. Finally, I used X-acto knifes and files to get the static discs out of the rings at the end of the rods.
The following video shows the difference between statis LGB valve-gear and the more prototypical version I created.
I would say, this was worth the effort. Once the holder for the link is mounted correctly, the valve gear motion will be much closer to the typical smooth waving of the real thing. Later, I’ll also rebuild the Allan-Trick more into a Stephenson type valve gear as used on the Budapest loco.
Welcome back in the workshop,
today, I’ll show you some changes I made to the cylinders. They came from the high-pressure chassis of the Tssd-Mallet (BR 99-633) and are cast in brass. This makes machining a bit difficult. As the basic form of the part does not match the Budapest-style, I relocated the valve-gear guide, removed the counterpart on the face side and relocated the top cover to make the cylinders smaller. They still are too long but look fine. Some styrene sheet is used to represent the typical shape of the prototype cylinders.
The crosshead guide-piece also needs some cutting to make it fit into the Tssd-cylinders.
Beside the work on the cylinders, I made some progress on the side-frames. The journal-box-leads and leaf-springs also came from the LGB/Aster Mallet. I cut them apart to place the springs on top of the frame, as by the prototype.
I also cut the leaf-springs shorter to make them fit. Some brass wire, nails and styrene profiles do complete the side-frames for now. Oh, and I added brake shoes with hangers on the inside. The prototype loco is equipped with Klien-Lindner-axles, so only the two center wheelsets are braked.
Next week, I’ll focus on the valve gear, as the original LGB parts caused some complaints.
after the op-session with my Romanian trains, I used the great weather to run my US-trains. Shay #5 is steamed up and ready to bring done some logs and broken equipment from the camp at Feddy Grove.
When arriving at Ronja Springs in the morning, the station is still quiet.
But just around the corner, Shay engine #5 is ready to run the first trains into the morning sun. The Shay starts to roll slow and rattling, to collect the consist of cars for the trip up the hill.
In front of the log cars, the consist also features a boxcar for food and an empty flatcar. One of the steam donkeys need repairs and will be brought down into the shops.
After a short water-stop at the wye, the train continues north and passes the rock cut at Emils-Top, where a section house was erected by the track gang.
Once Summit-Point is reached, the train coasts down into the camp at Feddy Grove. Once arrived, the train gets split and all cars are shunted to their loading spots.
Round about midday, the train is made up for the return trip down to Ronja Springs.
Hello fellows and welcome to a new loco build project here on my blog.
When I finished my Krauss-loco 763-237, I immediately got the idea to build another one, using LGBs 0-8-0 chassis of the Ruegen-loco Mh53. This new loco should be based on the MAVAG type 85, also known as MAV-492. Such a loco is still in operation under number CFI 764-243 and runs tourist trains on several ex CFF lines. As on the Krauss loco, my version will be a freelanced loco and got it’s own number.
Over several month, I collected parts from eBay and spare-part dealers for this project. Since the parts are combined from different locos, I start to call this the “Frankenstein”-project ;-)
Cylinders, journal leads and springs as well as further detail parts came from a LGB/Aster Tssd loco and were sold on eBay some while ago. A saxonian IK by LGB spends the valve gear. 0-8-0 power unit comes from LGB Ruegenlok as mentioned above, also the connecting rods, but I swapped the wheels with some from LGB FrankS.-loco. For modeling, I use several photos from the internet as well a simple side view drawing of such a loco.
The wheelbase of the power unit matches well in 16mm/scale (1:19). The wheels are to big, but will be hidden behind the outside frame.
I’ll built this loco the classic way, avoiding 3D-printing and cnc-operation. Only my own CFF-couplers are 3D-printed. To start with the side frames, I used double-sided photo-sticker to stick 2 sheets of 1.5mm ABS plastic together. For better drawing, I add a layer of masking tape on top.
I use a press-drill for holes, fret-saw and files for cutouts and the milling-machine for precision. Once the parts are machined, they are split in half again and I have to identical side frames. To model the rivets, I press 1mm brass nails into predrilled holes and file them flush on the backside.
Will be continued next week.
Today, I like to share some photos from ordinary service on my garden railroad.
Let’s take a trip with Krauss loco CFF 763-247 on the railroad of Oituz. After leaving the station at the sawmill, the train runs through forests and meadows before the valley gets narrow and the grades steeper. Last runaround loop in the forests is at Fagrotund. From this point, the empty cars are pushed up the line to the final loading points.
Later, the loco returns with a string of loaded cars to the Fagrotund. Here the cars are shunted into new order, keeping the disconnected log cars to the end of the consist.
And as usual on logging railroads, no running without derailments. I tried to rerail the loco with wood as on the prototype, but this didn’t work well.
The reason for the derailment was grass growing over the rails. So, it was time for some gardening… with use of the railroad off course :-)
Once done, Resita loco 764-467 made another trip with a Moldovita-style consist.
Next report will be from my workbench, where I already started the next project…
meanwhile, the garden railroad season has started. After a cold and unsteady May, several log trains have been operated in June already. And while doing so, I came to the idea to add some changes to my Resita loco. When I choose CFF 764-467 of the Campul Cetatii line, I did this for several reasons. One of them was the fact, that the loco didn’t had headlights in the later years, so there was no need to model them as well.
Two things have changed since them. I missed the headlight and I found very nice brass castings to model them. So I spend a backdate to my Resita loco from 1993-state back to 1989 when the loco was still equipped with lights, generator and the roof extension on the engineers side.
I decided for optical modifications only, so the headlights are non-functional.
Unfortunately, the first run after the modification was surprised by rain. So I went back into the workshop and it came, as expected… I added LEDs…
I don’t see a reason to remote control the lights, so I simply added a switch under the engineers side water tank flap. The small PC board holds resistors for the micro LEDs, installed in the headlights. BTW, I didn’t install direction independent lightning. It’s simple all on/all off.
The last photo shows a typical train on the Campul Cetatii line, heading down to the mill.
after the video presentation of last week, here’s the final building log of this micro layout. Each segment is 75mm wide and the backdrop 60mm high, while the track length is approx 3′. To make the backdrop, I searched the internet for a good photo of sandhill forests. With simple graphic tools, I made a long backscene by copy/paste and mirror-function. The backdrop is than printed on sticker paper on a color laser printer to be glued to the backdrop.
Small hills on the layout are created with foam and spackle. The lower portion was milled into the 8mm thick baseboard.
After a coat of acrylic paint, I glued the ties in place and covered them immediately with sand. I use white glue for this step. Further layers of sand are glued down with water/whiteglue-mixture. The rails themself are added once the ground cover was finished. I also sanded the ties flat on top for smooth operation of the log train.
The rails are made from 1×1.5mm basswood and glued down with super glue every 4th tie. I made small gauges from brass to ensure the correct gauge of 9mm.
To add more interesting to the scenery, I made some relief trees from Woodland branches on real wood logs. The stumps are also Woodland white metal castings. With the relief trees, the layout gained more depth. It’s also nice to watch the train passing underneath the leaves.
At the right end of the line, I installed a log deck from timbers and logs.
Finally, I added the vegetation from different FineTurfs and grasses, made by Woodland and Busch.
I used water/whiteglue mixture to glue the turf down and regular glue for bushes and grass. I spend effort to blend the vegetation into the same colors as used on the backdrop.
Well, this was my second Microlayout in 2021. Now it’s time to get back to the larger scales. There’s a full list of ideas and a well filled parts-box on the shelf. At least, the warmer weather calls for mode garden railroading ;-)