Let’s assemble the working driveshaft for the RTR chassis. Many parts are attached on a sprue and it’s recommended to leave them in place, until they are needed. Many holes have to be drilled to final dimension, which will provide nice press fits on the silver shafts.
My hand in the back gives an idea how tiny the parts are. The UV-resin is strong, but brittle if to much force is applied. So handle all parts and tools carefully. It’S also recommended to read the full instruction first (provided as PDF in Japanese and English). The assembly steps are well organized and reasoned. Most wire shafts are used in overlength and hold in a pin vise during assembly. This way it’s easy to fiddle them into the tight press fits of the tine parts. If you cut the shafts first, you’ve no chance. Ask why I know this ;-). Some photos are hosted below when I assemble the universal joints.
The wire used in the universal joints is 0.5mm. They are pressed into 0.5mm bores in the ring, while the square shafts are drilled to 0.6mm. It’s imported to drill all holes with a pin vise and hand power. No power tools. Follow the instructions ;-) Once the pin is in place, cut off with rail nipper and file smooth.
In the last step, I assembled the new steam engine with rotating crankshaft. Unfortunately, I enjoyed assembly that much, that I missed to take photos. I’m sorry for that. The crank shaft is going straight through with cranks in place, but without drive rods. It’s hard to notice on the finished model but makes assembly much easier.
Finally, I added the tiny pits for the truss-rods, steps and pilots. The working driveshaft is powered by the front wheelset in the rear truck, while all other bevel gears are dummy. This results in very smooth running. The front truck is powered by the center driveshaft, mostly hidden by the ash pan.
The next part will show the amazing details on the boiler and the other super structure parts.
after my short “trip” to Wales, I’m now back on logging related projects. The first project will be a new tiny Shay for 9mm gauge, which I bought mostly out of curiosity.
This kit is offered by Toma Model Works in Japan and is mostly made from 3D-printed UV-resin. As I feared the assembly of the drive mechanism, I ordered a kit with RTR chassis included. This kit only features a static, non roating drive shaft, but the parts to make the drive shaft working are available as a separate kit as well. So I decided to take this combination, as the full kit with working driveshaft was sold out at that time anyway.
The first look into the small boxes was very scary. There were tons of tiny parts. NO idea how to assemble them all into a working loco model. On the other hand, the quality and details are amazing. The boiler has full back head details.
The RTR chassis runs very smooth and slow from lowest voltage onwards. Small complain might be the buzzing spur gear drive. Maybe there are ways to silence it. We’ll see later, what’s possible or not.
The following posts will show the assembly progress on this loco.
More comming soon, here on my blog.
today I’ll share the last part of my little 009-layout-rebuilt.
A typical small detail on a Welsh or British little narrow gauge line would be sheeps. So I was looking for some fences to make a small section of a sheep meadow along tht edge of the layout, when I remembered our trip to Ireland some years ago. There we often saw rock walls instead of classic wood fences. But how to make such walls in model scale? The solution was pretty simple and came by accident. I ordered some cork ballast, which turned out to be way to coarse as to be used for track ballast. But what if….
I took a piece of plastic sheet and pressed a thick line of hotglue on top. Once covered in cork ballast, I kneaded the cork into the glue, whipped of the loose parts and formed a rock wall as long as the hotglue wasn’t to cold. This looked very promissing. I spend a quick paint with grey acrylic, followed by a white drybrush. The core of hot glue and cork pieces on top is flexible and can be bend to any shape. It can be cut with a knife very easy too. I added them to the layout with some more hotglue and added some green here and there to overgrow the walls.
Finally, the platform got a fence to the track behind, some benches and figures added. Once the lase scene was complete, the layout got called done and the railroad could start service to “Dropstone”.
today I show you the cottage I made from a Dapol kit. Beside the new house, I added a small loading dock to the team track for milk churns and other goods. I also placed a typical phone booth and letter box to underline the british flair.
Some people are arranged in little scenes to bring the layout to live.
The next episode will show the final details on the plattform and some rockwalls. I’ll also show the whole layout in an overview.
at the end of the freight track, a coal dealer has raised his office shack and started business. The shack came with the same kit as the station building, made by Dapol. The coal bin is scratchbuilt from wood.
In between, I made a plattform for the passengers. It’s made from cork to blend in to the other “earth surfaces” on the layout. I’ll add a fence along the rear edge as well as some benches and details. I think this will become very nice once finished.
Meanwhile, I made good progress on the cottage as well, but painting the timber frames takes some time.
I added a new station building to Dropstone on my little 009 layout.
Original, this is a “Coal Office” kit made by Dapol, but size and style fits well for a small station shelter as used on the Glyn Valley Tramway. So this one now serves my Gwyrdd Valley Tramway.
All signs were researched from the internet and printed on a photoprinter at home.
More structures and deatils are in progress and will be shown soon.
first I used my existing Deltang transmitters from my garden railroad trains to control the tiny 009 locos. But soon I had the idea to make a small handheld transmitter especially for the small locos. Since I couldn’t find a small housing, I made my own from beech wood. Both blocks were milled to sice and hollowed out to take the components.
Beside a Deltang Tx2-transmitter, you’ll need some switches, LDE and resistors, together with a throttle pot. I installed a small 300mAh Lipo battery for power and as there was enough space, I also included the charging-module inside. To make the control LEDs of the charging module visible, I added small window in the backside. Circuits, how to wire the Tx2 are shown on the Deltang.co.uk website.
After final testing, all components were stuffed into the housing and I added printed lable on top.
To operate two trains the same time with the new transmitter, I addapted the Selects-function. Instead of the regular 12-channel-switch, I added a regular switch for only two locos. I simply summed the resistors to simulate all the other channels. My transmitter now uses channel 1 and 6 only. It’s recommended to habe channel 6 involved, as it’s used for calibration.
At this point, I’ve an important hint. To use the Selecta-function, the Tx2 has to be set to profile-1. This automatically include the inertia-function. If you won’t use the inertia, you’ve to wire pin 6 anyway to avoid failures. To simualte the inertia-pot, simply wire pin 6 to ground and also via 20kOhm resistor to +3.3V. This set’s inertia to inactive. Leaving pin 6 floating causes failures and the transmitter will not work. It took me some time and nerves to figure that out.
ATTENTION – Please read data-sheets and instruction of the components you might use. Any usage of the shared documentation on this blog is to your own risk!