I was able to postpone the cab construction by adding more details to the water tanks. So I added water hatches for the tanks from PVC and ABS plastics.
Another typical detail on such Budapest locos is the location of the water-sucker inside or in front of the smoke boy support. The model was scratch-built from brass.
Also typical is the diagonal pipe running to the top of the water tank. With such details, the water tanks are done as well. Now is no more hiding to get the cab attached.
Finally, I found some issues with my builders plate. Seems there are differences in scale somehow….
Let’s continue with the water tanks of the loco. The basic construction is made from 2 and 3mm styrene. I glued a 0.5mm sheet to the underside, which represents the walkway along the loco tanks. BTW, I decided to model a welded replacement tanks, as many prototype engines got new tanks before the era I like to represent.
The outer shell of the tanks is made form 1.5mm styrene, which got bend to shape first, glues to the base and cut to dimension in the last step. The water tanks are hollow at the front end. Close to the cab, I added lead weights.
Another detail is the handrail running along the top edge as well as the generator. The tanks are rigged permanently wo the boiler by cross braces. The whole super-structure has to be removable in the end.
The last photo gives an impression of the finished loco once the cab is done as well. I still look for clever solutions how to make rounded side-roof-section.
Welcome back to this weeks blog,
as announced last week, I’ll focus on the boiler back-head. Since this is a large scale model, the cab interior will be well visible and needs some decoration as well.
The parts are scratch-built from styrene, brass and wires. For hand wheels, I use brass-castings. The parts for the steam manifold are made on from brass on the lathe.
The steam regulator lever with link-rod was replaced as I didn’t like the first attempt.
For now, the boiler is complete. Let’s see how much of the details will be still visible once the cab is in place. Additional interior parts like Johnson bar, hand brake and more pipework will be added together with the cab floor.
Let’s finish the boiler. I was looking for cast brass parts to add the water feed valves, but I couldn’t get some. So I finally decided to make them scratch-built from brass. The parts are made on the lathe and I added some cast hand wheels. Looks better than the cast brass parts . On […]
Let’s continue with the pipework on the new loco. Below the future cab floor, I mounted two injectors and extended them with the water pipes. While body of the loco has to be removable, I made separate attachments for the water tank outlet valves. For the cylinders, I made gland pieces to take the in […]
Let’s continue the boiler. I added safety valves to the steam dome, made from brass, screws and nuts. The steam outlet at the front of the dome is cast brass and bought from Bertram Heyn. I removed the lever and mounted it to the side of the dome as on the prototype I like to […]
Hi folks, after the short break, I’m back on the Budapest project. I made the domes for the boiler from steel. This may sound wired first, but since I need the space inside for the battery, I’ve to add weight on other places. At least, I had pieces of steel in my scrap box. The […]
Hi folks, round about 5 years ago, I placed my order for the Resita kit. Right afterwards, I started thinking on how to build matching cars and more important, which prototype model I could choose for my own Resita loco. The Resita kit arrived in late 2017 and I immediately started the built. But I […]
Hi folks, with the chassis of the Budapest loco done so far, it’s time to start the boiler. This will make it easier to design the boiler rest on top of the chassis and some other details. I decided to use a combination of PVC pipe for the boiler with domes and made from steel. […]
Let’s continue construction on the Budapest project ;-) It’s time to get the main frame assembled. The sheets for the front and back were made from ABS plastic again by using the same tools and techniques as on the side frames. I added diagonal U-profiles inside the frame to support the couplers, as it’s found […]